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Way Motor Works :: 07+ Cooper S (R56) :: WMW Resonator Delete Pipe R55 R56 R57 R58 R59

WMW Resonator Delete Pipe R55 R56 R57 R58 R59

WMW Resonator Delete Pipe R55 R56 R57 R58 R59 
WMW Resonator Delete Pipe for 2007-2014 R55 R56 R57 R58 R59 R60 R61. The stock turbo air discharge pipe has a plastic muffler built into it. This is designed to make it quiet but also is a restriction. There are a few different options on the market to remove this pipe with restriction. But they are all over $100 and some over $200. That is where WMW went with a simple and cost effective idea. This WMW res delete pipe replaces the plastic muffler only. That way you still use the perfect fitting stock rubber hoses and our all aluminum perfect machined pipe uses the stock clamps and removes the restriction. WMW has found installing this will improve throttle response as the air flow will be speed up.

Sold as individual WMW Resonator Delete Pipe.


Fits 2007-2010 Cooper S R56
Fits 2008-2010 Clubman S R55
Fits 2009-2011 Cabrio S R57
Fits 2009-2014 JCW Hardtop R56
Fits 2009+ JCW Cabrio R57
Fits 2009-2014 JCW Clubman R55
Fits 2011-2014 Cooper S R56
Fits 2011-2014 Clubman S R55
Fits 2011+ Cabrio S R57
Fits 2011+ Countryman S R60
Fits 2013+ Paceman S R61
Fits 2012+ Coupe S R58
Fits 2012+ JCW Coupe R58
Fits 2012+ Roadster S R59
Fits 2012+ JCW Roadster R59
SKU WMWResDelete
Shipping Cost $9.00
Price: $59.95


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Stock Resonator next to WMW Res Delete
Way Motor Works Resonator Delete Pipe Installed

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Customer Reviews

Author: Eric Adams
First impressions out of the box: high quality piece.

After the install, slight increase in intake noise (probably more noticeable if you don't already have an aftermarket intake). Turbo spool seems quicker and throttle response is definitely improved, making the car a little more rev happy.

Very satisfied with this purchase and I'd recommend it over the competitor's more expensive silicon replacement versions.

Highly recommend, thanks again Way!

Author: Jason Pavlicek
Couldn't find any instructions for installation online, so I just winged it. I would definitely suggest getting some hose clamps as the ones that came on my Mini weren't able to go back on. They weren't the typical screw to tighten clamps. Also, the resonator has a star shaped screw holding it to the frame. Just some advice. As far as performance, you can definitely tell a difference! By far the biggest bang for your buck! I agree with everything Eric has mentioned.

Author: Frank Miramontes
Agree with both of the reviews from Eric and Jason! But yes, be ready for a touch of a challenge when taking the resonator off. You will need two additional hose clamps to complete this job. I believe they were 2.5in, but I had a box of two of every standard size so I don't quite remember. Better to have more than none.

(These notes below are my experience with the installation of this part and you are on your own for any damage you cause while doing this. So please consult with a certified mechanic before choosing to do this on your own, also please make sure your vehicle is cold and there is no pressure in the system, we didn't wait long enough and had a bit of a mess and it could have been bad)

There are five main points that need to be removed/loosened/disconnected in order to remove the resonator hose section.

1. Remove the coolant tank reservoir
2. Top/Turbo Hose Clamp
3. Lower Intercooler Hose Clamp
4. Resonator bracket to Radiator T25 screw
5. There is a clip around a hose right next to the resonator that has a nipple that is attached to the resonator that needs to be pushed out to release it.

Remove the coolant tanks bolt keeping it attached to the frame, spring clamp, u-clip below to remove lower hose. Be mindful of the amount of fluid in reservoir as it will come out when you remove that lower hose and take proper precautions to save coolant or have additional to replace what it lost.

Once the tank is out of the way you will now have better access to the rest of the job. The hose clamp at the turbo is a no brainer. The hose clamp at the bottom into the intercooler has a hole in the body/bumper to access the screw for the clamp. Both top and bottom clamps have brackets that help keep them in place to avoid having to chase them while loosening or tightening. Do you best to keep those intact.

The torx screw on the resonator thats attached to the radiator is a T25 and will require some extensions on a 1/4 in ratchet (or similar) and some patience. It's kind of hidden by the bracket itself. You'll need to move some of the coolant hoses around to get straight access to the screw.

Now you've removed 4 of the 5 elements. You'll find the clip with the nipple hard to get to and will require some finessing to get out. if you have some angled long neck pliers those will probably be your best bet. Pinch the two sides in and push out and you're golden!

Once you've removed the entire section, keep in mind the angles of the hoses so you put them back facing the same direction so when you reinstall you don't have to pull it back out to make adjustments.

At this point you're saying, "how the heck am I supposed to get the two hose clamps off of the resonator?" I was there too! Luckily I had a buddy help me out with these. The connection points look like puzzle pieces that just fit too perfectly. The tension on both of them is too perfect. The way he did it was taking a small flat head screwdriver and lifted one of the edges to allow for a larger thicker screwdriver to get in there and just lifted over and over until he just took a hammer and wacked it a few times. IT WAS A B*%CH! But they came off eventually. (Do not try this if you are not comfortable, find your own way of removing them, this was just how we did it) You will not be able to use them so don't worry about destroying them, but be extremely mindful of the hose itself, you don't want to put a hole in it.

Again, refer to the original direction of the hoses and install the new pipe. You're almost home! Once you're confident on the angle of the hoses, and you've test fit it, tighten the clamps on the delete side and complete the install and put everything back where it was. The hose that was once connected to the resonator with that nipple you may want to zip tie or something to keep it in place. not too tight just to keep it from moving and rubbing around.

Fire it up and check to make sure everything is snug and you don't lose any compression. Once your confident, take her out for a test drive and feel the difference...I know I did! And it was a nice, oh so nice, difference!

Motor on!

Author: Joe Fortunato
Great Quality, love it! One tip: it is easiest to install this by putting the car up on jackstands and coming up from the bottom, a little quarter inch ratchet with the right size socket for the hose clamps, and a shorter screwdriver for the T25 on the radiator will do the trick. takes probably 30 min this way.

Author: Joshua Peters (jrpet89@vt.edu)
First impression: Amazing product and high quality material. Very smooth both outside and in.

Install took less than an hour in the snow. Simply loosen clamp all the way on turbo side and pry off, then repeat with clamp on radiator side. Final step was to remove T-25 torx screw holding factory resonator from behind the radiator. The hardest part was getting the tubing off the factory resonator. Once off, the pipes go on this delete pipe easily and all factory clamps reused. Just make sure the angles of the pipes are facing the right directions.

Driving experience: Noticeable spooling of the turbo with the windows shut (before it was barely noticeable). Also, factory recirculating valve is heard inside the cabin of the car where before you had to have the windows down and radio off to here it. Throttle seems more responsive but unsure if it is just a placebo effect.

Author: Maurice Opotowsky
Fast shipping and a perfect fit. My R56 MCS sounds better and accelerates a little more smoothly with this and the noisemake delete.

You could spend $10 at your FLAPS, but then you have to cut and paint. This is so simple and easy that itís worth the extra money..



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